16 Sep 2014

To Surf or Not to Surf - Japan Pacific Ocean


I started body-boarding regularly in 2000, and probably didn't actually start riding waves properly for a couple of years after that, by then it was a twice a week trip to the sea, from May to October.  Just something I did, enjoyed the thrill of riding waves and being in the sea, away from it all with chilled people.

It wasn't until the Earthquake/Tsunami/Nuclear Meltdown trio occurred when my heart was breaking did I fully realise just what an important part of my life it was.  And actually I still didn't realise this until I went for the first time in the Summer of 2012 and remembered just how good I felt, how much more alive.  It was then I knew what had been missing, why things had felt flat, something not right. I'd never identified, or labelled myself as a body-boarder, it was just something I did.  Just a part of my life.

For anyone who have never surfed waves, how to explain this feeling. There is nothing else quite like it, snowboarding powder is the closest I've come to it, but still not quite there.  To ride a wave, to be one with the sea, flying along on the energy in the wave, connection, oneness and total concentration.  Nothing else exists.  It is a very yogic state to be in.  No wonder there are so many surfing yogi.  Ride one good sized wave, and any stress, worry, tension just disappears, replaced with a grin and the best feeling of exhilaration, oneness and calm.

However, my local surf spot was wiped out in the tsunami, including the schools, houses, and shops around. It wasn't a built up area in the first place, but the scene immediately after was, well, devastating.



We went out there the day after the quake, all emmersed in sea water.

The next year, 2012, we went, there had been a Buddhist ceremony on the beach for the souls of those not found.  There were mountains of debris, as far at the eye could say, people steadily working to sort, shift and dispose, little by little.  Brand new shiny incinerators dotted the coast line.

2012 Remains of House after Tsunami.  Some only the concrete foundations were left.

Mountains of Debris

Nature returns regardless.  In the background you can see temporary quarters for workers and an incinerator. 

Working, little by little, on what must have, at the beginning, seemed like an endless task.


The following year, 2013,  I can't remember, as that was when and where I finished off my knee and went in for surgery the next day.

This year though, the mountains of debris were gone, as were the incinerators, all that was left were shards of pottery in the dirt and a huge new sea wall constructed.  There is still work going on, and rumours that they might make facilities for a surf spot.  It is where I've been going since I started, it's my local place.


New Sea wall, gleaming new, stretching for kilometres.  Debris and Incinerators all gone.


Seeing this made me very optimistic and hopeful. Despite all the cristiscm in the papers, I see people, in all areas inJapan working as hard as humanly possible to rebuild and recover, and this is beautiful.  We also drive past temporary housing complexes, and I really feel for those, they have lost everything, and are still in cramped, rabbit hutch like living quarters.  But work is in progress.

But, it is also relatively close to the nuclear power plant in Fukushima.  So the decision to surf or not has been a very tough and emotional one. On the one hand I am yearning to get in the sea, yet on the other fear of radiation consumes me.

You can read anything you want to believe on the internet, so it's hard to determine what is fact and what is rumour.  Radiation is a very emotive topic, one that seems to be fueled by misinformation, not to mention political and financial agendas on both sides.

So like the good yogi I try to be, I try to inform myself, with correct knowledge, and to not be a victim to fear and mass hysteria.  I have been looking at the facts and reading 'scientific' resources. But I am not a nuclear scientist, even though I probably have more knowledge in this field now than the average person, due to our proximity to Fukushima.  Our surf spot is 70 km north of the power plants and 12 km south of a big river that runs all through the mountains of Fukushima.

I decided to go back into the sea based on the figures that were being released from the radiation monitoring sites, all being way under that of the limit for drinking water.

So, the limit for drinking water in Japan (which is very strict compared to that of other countries in the world) is 10 Becquerels per litre.  Now, I saw that the water in the immediate vicinity of the power plants is generally coming in under 0.8 Bq/L and this is down current from where we surf.  For anyone interested here are the latest figures for the sea water, Sea Immediate Vicinity to Nuclear Power Plant, the levels on the sea bed however are another matter.  Radioactive particles, are heavy, and so gather on the sea bed.

The other concern lays in the river 12 km to the north.   No fooling, there is radiation in that river.  As I said it's heavy metal, and so the sediment in this river and on the banks have been shown to have levels of up to 2200 Bq/L.  But the water being measured at the mouth of the river is much lower,  in fact all results showing readings of under 1 Bq/L.

So one would presume that surfing a few hours a week, in the water, should be fine, right?  Also I found this article reassuring and well informed, rational, and well, the fear and stress, I do believe have a incredibly detrimental effect. OK so I won't be going as much as I used to for a while, but I've been twice this summer,  it felt good.

The fear I felt over the threat of radiation literally almost paralysed me, so much misinformation and fear mongering. Yes, these is danger, but sadly there is danger everywhere these days. As much as I love the internet and blogging etc there is a lot of misinformation, I do not want to add to this, and am learning to navigate my way through, searching for truth.  Whether it be about Yoga, Radiation, or whatever.  The age of information is indeed a double edged sword.

1 comment:

  1. Hi there, I'm Lindsey! I have a question and would love to speak with you. Could you please email me when you have a chance? Thanks so much. I look forward to hearing from you! lindseyDOTcaldwellATrecallcenterDOTcom

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